Fév 142010
Lijiang (c) Yves Traynard 2010

Below a kind of Lonely Planet update from my own experience (February 2010). Section & page number refer to the Lonely Planet China, 11th Edition, May 2009. It can be purchased by chapter at www.lonelyplanet.com. This update has been posted on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Travel Forum too.

p. 704
Elevation 2400 m.

p. 706
Dangers & Annoyances
Altitude sickness and sun can be real threats especially when visiting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The Y80 Lijiang entrance fee called «Old town Protection (or maintenance) fee» seems difficult to avoid if you want to visit any site in the city, Baisha or the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The pricey ticket is valid for a whole stay.
White Horse Dragon Pool
In Lijiang, people still wash vegetables and clothes in the river crystal-clear water instead of the well.
Looking at the Past Pavilion
Built in 1996. Perfect retreat from the crowd in the morning, extraordinary views over the city (old and new) and the mountains from the top of the tower. Delicious shaded tea-houses in the park and the nearby lanes. Wenchang temple, located near Looking at the Past Pavillon, is closed.
Due to the density of Lijiang’s housing and the many alleys the LP map is totally useless for central Lijiang. Instead, buy the three-in-one map : Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-la in any of these towns (Y5).

p. 707
Black Dragon Pool Park
Requires the Lijiang entrance fee ticket. Free Naxi music concert in the afternoon, beautiful species of trees.
International Youth Hostel Lijiang
Hot water in the morning too. Avoid the cheap single room above the reception (noisy and smoky in winter).

p. 708
Eating (a few more popular eateries)
Tian He. Wuyi st. (sometimes refers as May First st.), halfway Zhenxing st. and Wenzhi st. Tasty Chinese food for Chinese. English menu nevertheless.
N’s kitchen near the International Youth Hostel Lijiang. Another good address for breakfast and bicycle renting (Y30 a day) with free map. Run by a friendly English speaking Beijiner.
The eastern section of Wuyi st. turns into a soft bar street at night (Hello sunshine, 51 Commune).

p. 709
The new line linking Lijiang to Xiaguan is now open. Three trains daily. One convenient night train to Kunming (10pm, soft berth Y200). Cheaper and much safer for both passengers and luggage than the bus.
Train Ticket office is located first walkway on the north side of Fuhui Lu (map p.706, adjacent to #34, head for Bank of China). 9 am-5 pm.
The Lijiang East Station can be reached by bus (#13) or minibus (Y10).

p. 711
No entrance fee to the village.
Frescoes. Y30+ Lijiang entrance fee.
A easy daily bike ride (17 km) connects Lijiang, Baicha, Shuhen (a smaller Lijiang), and Lijiang.
Yulong Xueshan
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a kind of national park. Coming from Lijiang every traveler have to pay a Y80 ‘Tourist ticket to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain’ valid once, at the park gate. In addition he should have to pay the Y80 Lijiang entrance fee (or show a valid own one).
Dry Sea Meadow is referred as Yulong Glacier on the official brochure (Cloud Fir Meadow is Spruce Meadow). Take one leaflet at any travel agency in Lijiang.
Tickets must be purchased at two different offices 10mn ride past the park gates. Minibus «7» can drop you at any of these offices, distant from 200 m.
The first office sells tickets for Spruce Meadow and Yak Meadow, the second one for Yulong Glacier.
From there, dedicated green buses lead directly to the chairlift. Buses fee is Y20 (return ticket).
Yulong Glacier (Y150), could be closed in case of wind. It’s possible to get a one day extension to the Y80 park entrance fee at the inquiry desk of Yulong Glacier office. Elevation at the cable-car arrival is 4506 m.
Spruce Meadow is Y55. Elevation is 3208 m.
Yak Meadow is Y60. Elevation is 3600 m. There is a small Buddhist monastery 200 m from the top.
On the way back from any of the 2 meadows sights you can stop at Baishui (pools with turquoise crystalline water and ‘ornamental’ real yaks).
Visiting the three sites the same day is unrealistic and has little interest. For those familiar to the Alps or some famous US national park, these places are not so impressive. Avoid it in case of bad weather. Anyway, you can spend a nice day-trip with gorgeous sceneries for a mere Y180.
From Lijiang, bus 7 departs from #33 not #34 (map p. 706). Microbuses also called ‘7’ (= number of passengers) also depart from the same place.
Coming back to Lijiang, microbuses ‘7’ stand on the road, outside the Yulong Glacier Ticket Office and Parking lot (Y10), on the way back it can drop you conveniently at the Black Dragon Pool.

Pour citer cet article (format MLA) : Traynard, Yves. « Lonely Planet Update – Lijiang ». ytraynard.fr 2024 [En ligne]. Page consultée en 2024. <https://www.ytraynard.fr/2010/02/lonely-planet-update-lijiang/>

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